Maple Dining Room Table - Applying The Finish

Now that the thing is finally constructed, I cleared out a space in the garage and brought it in. First I attached the top to the stand by screwing through the pocketholes on both short aprons into the breadboard ends. Then I screwed the swivel figure eights to the bottom.

At this point I'm just repeating a cycle of applying coats of wiping varnish and sanding. I'm applying the coats once per day. I think I'll put about 8 coats on the top and maybe 3 everywhere else. Then I'll be done!

Maple Dining Room Table - Attaching the Breadboard Ends

I used pocket holes on the bottom centers of each end to hold the breadboard ends to the planks. This will allow the planks to expand and contract. Afterwards, I had a few more hours of sanding, on both sides of the top, to get the breadboard ends to the same thickness as the planks. Someday, I'll buy a planer because that was boring work!

Maple Dining Room Table - Glue-up Redux

While I was dealing with the mis-measured tenons for the short aprons, I neglected the long aprons. The first mistake was that I didn't clamp them. I though I could just pound the joints together and they would hold. Dumb...

The glue dried with gaps, between the apron cheeks and legs, on 3 of the joints.

So I called Brek and told him my glue-up nightmare (described in my previous post too). He convinced me to take it apart and fix it. He said I would feel much better. I hope he was right.

I used a flush saw to cut the tenons to once again separate the long aprons from the legs.

This was a depressing day. Next, I put all four apron ends into my hand-miter saw and trimmed each end about 1/8" to cut the cheeks flush. This will shorten the overall table length by 1/4". I flush sanded the tenon pieces left on the legs with an orbital sander. Then I re-drilled the mortises and re-cut the tenons. After a quick trip to Highland Hardware, I got my first pair of 72" aluminum clamps. Now I'm ready.

So this time, everything went smoothly and I ended up with a nice table stand.

I also cut, drilled, and attached three cross braces for the top. These will use figure-eight screw swivels to hold the top down while allowing for its seasonal expansion and contraction.

Maple Dining Room Table - Glue-up Nightmare

And so I finally reached the glue-up milestone. All the pieces are cut, sanded, drilled, routed, chamfered, planed, and ready to be assembled. It's hard to believe a dining room table can come from that pile of random boring looking boards.

I moved the table top aside to use the particle board on my workbench as a flat surface. I had rags and a squirt bottle ready to sop up glue. I measured the mortises again and cut the floating tenons. Everything was ready. Glue-ups are always a nightmare for me. I wondered what could go wrong this time.

I had 30 minutes left before I had to leave for my Lasik appointment (I know, cool, right?). I figured 30 minutes was more than enough time, so I started. I glued the eight tenons into the 4 aprons. Then I began connecting the aprons to the legs. After banging with a sledge hammer and tightening with a clamp, in an attempt to close the apron-to-leg joints, it hit me. The mortise measurements were correct...until one side of each leg's apron tenons were inserted. Ahhh! I had somehow overlooked the fact that I had cut the tenons such that each would occupy part of the same space; a HUGE mistake!

As the glue was drying, I franticly retrieved my reciprocating saw, clamped the aprons to a porch post, and proceeded to cut 1/2 inch off each tenon. It was a mess. I was dragging the freshly sanded legs across the concrete and banging it all over the place.

Eventually I reconnected the aprons to the legs, and attempted to scrape out half dried glue from the joints I had neglected for that last 15 minutes. That's when Melissa stepped outside and said it's time to go to your Lasik surgery.

Racking. That's the word going through my mind today. I'll have to discuss this with Brek. Most anything can be fixed. I may need to reinforce two of these joints. Glue-ups. The nightmares of amateur woodworkers.

Maple Dining Room Table - Router Work

I finally bought a flush cut bit for my router. This is an amazing little bit, I don't know how I ever got anything built without it. I used it for the final cross cuts on the table top, running it along my piece of particle board for the straight edge. Other than some tear-out on the right corner, it worked great.

Next, I switched to a slot bit with a bearing and cut the groove in each of the breadboard ends. And finally, I cut the tongue on each end of the table top. This part sucked because the table top was not perfectly flat. It has slight dips in a couple areas where I sanded a bit more along the joints. That means the tongue ends up with these same dips. I tried to compensate by making sure the widest sections of the tongue would fit tightly into the breadboard end groove but it became such a pain taking apart my jig each time to check, I ended up taking a bit more than I needed off the tongue. Hopefully, my brother's breadboard end technique allows this. I think it does.

Maple Dining Room Table - Drilling Mortises

While Melissa sanded, I drilled the mortis holes in the legs and aprons using my BeadLock mortis jig system. The holes in the legs were difficult because it was hard to keep track of which sides of the legs needed the holes. Fortunately I pulled it off without mistakes.

Maple Dining Room Table - Working The Top

After careful jointing of the table top plank edges I was finally ready for the top glue-up. I used some pipe clamps I borrowed from my dad, and some other clamps I borrowed from Lowes (I took them back...they were in perfect condition). Beforehand, I bought a piece of 3/4" particle board; it was the flatest thing I could find. I needed a flat surface for the glue-up. It was nightmarish, per my expectations. In the end, I got a table top.

Next, I used a jigsaw to rough cut the ends to within about a 1/4" of the target final length. Just for fun I took one of the 2"-wide end strips I cut off and bent it with my foot until it broke.

My joints for the table top planks were simple butt joints with glue. I wanted to test the theory that simple glued butt joints were stronger than the wood itself. Sure enough, after several tests, the board always broke at the wood instead of the joint.

The surface will require lots of hand planing and sanding. Melissa offered to help, so I put her to work with the orbital palm sander and some 60 grit. Boring....

This will take a while.

Maple Dining Room Table - Top, Chamfers, Crosscuts

After noticing one of my wider top panels had cupped, I made another trip to the lumber yard. When I returned, I noticed my newly purchased board came from the same tree as a previous board I had. Cool! I called Brek and asked his opinion on book matching within a table top. He didn't like the idea of two book-matched boards next to a third; said the balance would be off. He suggested ripping the third board and bordering two center book-matched boards. That's what I ended up doing. I think I will appreciate the table so much more if I can always see the book-match and remind myself of my happy accident.

After firming up the table top boards and sides it was time to run them through the jointer. I carefully marked the edges to run each matched edge through the jointer the opposite way. This little trick will ensure matching joints, even if my jointer fence is not perfectly square.

Chamfers - I knew I needed them on this table. People will be moving around chairs and dishes and feet and knees and hands. There would need to be no sharp edges anywhere. So I angled the jointer fence at 45% and ran each edge through twice. I used three passes for each table leg edge to make the chamfers a tad deeper. Deeper leg chamfers will also hopefully deter pets from thinking they can chew a chunk off.

Finally, I screwed my trusty Nobex to the workbench and crosscut the legs and aprons. The Nobex is way more accurate than the table saw. It did suck, making all the cuts in 95 degree Georgia humidy, however.

Maple Dining Room Table - Ripping and Jointing

The first cuts are the hardest. After the first cuts, you are committed to using the sections of lumber you picked out. I spent several hours examining all my wood before finally making the decisions. I got all the ripping out of the way. I hate ripping.

I found some inexpensive pieces of 3" X 3" hard maple that I decided to use for the legs. Cutting them down to 2" X 2" pieces was a major pain. The Shopsmith couldn't handle it in a single pass so I had to use multiple passes, flipping the pieces over. The saw marks were nasty but the jointer I got for the Shopsmith 2 years ago easily cleaned them up. The before and after picture above shows the jointed version on the left.

Maple Dining Room Table - The Wood

The table will go into a dark room. The room's walls are made of old heart pine tongue and groove panels, so we didn't want a dark table. I really wanted birch, because I had just fallen in love with a birch salad bowl I turned recently. However, my lumber yard's birch selection didn't include anything thick enough for the table legs.

Soft maple was our next choice. This is my first time using soft maple. I've heard great things about it and love the pieces my brother has made from soft maple. The actual lumber selection was a nightmare, per my expectations. There are hundreds of decisions. In the end, I stayed fairly conservative, selecting uniform colored pieces with an emphasis on straight grain near the edges.

Melissa talked me out of most of the wild pieces we saw. I managed to end up with this one though...

I was going to use it for the breadboard ends or a panel on the top but I chickened out. There was a knot right in the middle that went through and I got worried it would look too wild.

Maple Dining Room Table - The Design

I've been wanting to build a dining room table for the last several years. We finally decided Greta, the nervous furniture chewing dog, had outgrown the chewing furniture stage. I used Google Sketchup to design the table to scale so I could plan out the construction and make a cut list.

The design is simple and modest. The only curve is that of the long aprons. The curve provides a bit of leg room without compromising the integrity of the apron. I'll use breadboard ends modeled after my brother's technique; where the breadboards are attached to the aprons below them (at their centers) and the joined table-top panels can float freely between the breadboards.

The table will comfortably seat four (two on each long side), with the option to expand to 8 (3 on each long side and one at each short side).

We Refinished Our Floors...Twice!

Our southeast-facing front bay window takes in a lot of direct sunlight. It also gets a lot of abuse from dogs looking out that window to monitor the front yard. About a year ago we noticed the finish was beginning to wear itself off the floor in areas. We also had another room, the study, that had worn patches of finish from the time we bought the house. We hoped Minwax Reviver would be enough but after a couple applications, we decided we would take the plunge and try our hands at refinishing.

We did a bunch of research. My favorite video was this one. We waited for spring because we knew we would have to have windows open because of the fumes and to aid with drying. We picked a weekend, emptied both rooms, I rented an orbital floor sander, and we spent an entire Saturday sanding down both rooms. We used my orbital palm sander for the detailed areas and my 1/4-sheet palm sander for the corners. The reason I rented the orbital floor sander instead of the drum sander was because I wanted to remove as little wood as possible. This is a 1930's house and its floors have already been refinished multiple times. I could tell by removing the HVAC registers.

The next day we vacuumed, wiped the walls down, wiped the floors down with mineral spirits, and began applying the finish. We selected an oil based, clear satin, super fast-drying polyurethane finish for floors. Clear satin to hide any future imperfections.

Shortly after applying the first coat, our air conditioning decided to kick in. Ahhhhh! We both forgot about it. It had been on for weeks but not warm enough to actually turn on...until today of course. It wasn't the air conditioning itself that got us. It was months worth of pet hair that had fallen into the vents, now blowing all over our wet finish.

And with that simple little problem, we had to start over. The hair was everywhere and the only way to remove it was to wait several days, then sand it down again.

I had to go out of town for work so Melissa ended up taking a Friday off work and sanding down both rooms with our orbital palm sander! I don't know how she managed but when I got home Friday night, both rooms were ready to go.

So after turning off the air conditioning, we spent Saturday reapplying three coats of finish and declared it a success. That may be the last time we ever refinish floors.