Bathroom Renovation #2 - Rebuilding The Floor

As we removed the concrete and the planks between the joists supporting it, we couldn't believe what we saw. How was this bathroom floor and all its weight being supported? The joists were completely rotten except the bottom inch or so. In fact, one of them fell on its own once the concrete was removed. We were hoping we would only have to sister one or two of the joists and the rest would be fine. Instead, we knew we would have to replace all the joists.
It was weird walking into the basement and looking up through a large hole into our old bathroom.The job wouldn't have been so bad if it wasn't for all the cast iron plumbing, electrical, and other spaghetti hanging from the old joists. We had to support everything from below as we removed the old joists and made the new ones. This also meant we had to weave our bodies around all these pipes as we worked. Pain in the ass! Two days later we had our new floor.

Bathroom Renovation #2 - Concrete Removal

After our Christmas vacation we arrived home with Bob as planned. We used my friend Branden's hammer drill with it's spade bit and broke up the concrete between the joists.
What a back breaker! The concrete was about 6 inches thick, super heavy, and required constant trips outside to a pile we started...Cutting through the ceramic tile was scary as the pieces flew like broken glass. After a while, the concrete dust was ridiculous. The basement floor, looking through what used to be the bathroom floor, looked like the surface of the moon, covered with concrete debris. Eventually we removed the last of it.

Bathroom Renovation #2 - The Concrete Decision

Once the tub was removed I noticed a split in the concrete slab that had been poured between the bathroom floor joists. The split allowed me to shove a crowbar between the layers and I began ripping up a 1.5 inch deep layer of concrete the ceramic tile was attached to...Now I could finally start to see what we were dealing with. Below the 1.5 inch concrete layer was about 4.5 more inches of concrete. But worse yet, the joists surrounding the concrete appeared completely rotten from nearly a century of concrete moisture. Sensing I was way over my head in this project, Melissa and I began posting questions on Do It Yourself forums. I marked up the following picture (looking up at the bathroom floor from our basement) to help describe our bathroom floor construction to the various contractors that would hopefully respond to our questions.In addition to the concrete and rotten joists, we also found rotten wood all around the plumbing side of the tub we removed.Most of the responses to our DIY posts recommended removing all concrete to get the weight off our poor house and to allow us to create a stable, solid, flat floor. So we abandoned our previous plan of using self leveling compound to fix the sagging, cracked concrete floor and decided to remove the concrete.

I knew hiring contractors to do this would be expensive and take a while to find good ones. I also have a hard time trusting contractors and sometimes feel they don't respect the rest of the house. I suggested to Melissa that we drive her dad, Bob, down with us from Ohio after our Christmas visit (and fly him back several days later).

We've worked several projects in the past with Bob, including building a backyard storage shed and pergola. Bob tends to work quickly and figure out complicated construction solutions with sound knowledge and he typically does it without overspending on materials. We called Bob, showed him the pictures of our bathroom problems, and he agreed to offer his help.

Bathroom Renovation #2 - The Cast Iron Tub

The first thing we had to do was remove the cast iron tub. It was in bad shape and had already been re-glazed at least once. On the advice of my friend, Al Hess, I took a sledgehammer to it and broke it into pieces Melissa and I could manage. The first attempt proved it was not going to be as easy as I hoped...

Once I started hitting it in weaker areas it got a little easier. After several hours of cursing and banging my brains out, we finally got the beast out.

Mahogany Vanity Finish

A long time ago my dad recommended using Minwax's Wipe-On Poly, mainly because it eliminated the worry of brush marks. But for this project I figured I was ready for something more ambitious. I picked up a copy of Bob Flexner's Understanding Wood Finishing book in search of a better finish. I convinced myself I wanted to fill the pores of my mahogany with colored paste wood filler to bring out the grain and provide a smooth finish, give it a wash coat, then brush on a polyurethane finish. But after experimenting on some scraps with the paste wood filler I quickly bought a bottle of good old Minwax Wipe-On Poly and gave up most everything Flexner had taught me. Oh well. I'm definitely an amateur.

As easy as Minwax makes it, I still hate finishing. In order to protect the mahogany from the bathroom's wet environment, I wiped on seven coats, including sanding with 220 grit between the first three coats. The first three sanding sessions were aimed at filling the pores with the wipe-on poly. Flexner said this would work. I sanded the final coat down to 1500 grit using mineral spirits to keep the polyurethane from clogging the fine paper. I guess it worked. Man do I hate finishing. What are you doing this weekend, Eric? Sanding and varnishing...again!

Mahogany Vanity Construction

In preparation for the renovation of our second bathroom, Melissa and I did some research and determined all the available bathroom vanities out there are butt-ugly and most are poorly made. So naturally, I decided to make one myself. After careful consideration we decided it was worth buying a vanity top, however, rather than put up with all the maintenance that would come if I built a wooden sink top. After lots and lots of searching we found a timeless white porcelain top that was within our budget. I took it’s measurements and designed a four-legged vanity cabinet, with adequate storage and support.

Next, I researched types of wood and decided on African Mahogany for its water durability, color, availability, and price. After much agony and decisiveness, I picked up a piece of 1.5” and a longer piece of ¾” Mahogany and here is what I came up with…

I routed out tongues around the edges of panels…

…and grooves on the edges of frame pieces…

…I abandoned my usually pocket hole joinery technique and bumped it up a notch in join strength and cosmetics by using the BeadLock System to create mortise and floating tenon joints. I was heavily influenced by test results in a Fine Woodworking book that indicated mortise and floating tenon joints were the best mixture of strength and ease of construction.

In the end I decided I didn’t like the system because it depended on too much eyeballing pencil lines and it was nearly impossible to clamp the jig tight enough to keep it from moving while drilling. However, it did allow me to adapt it to many different wood widths…

Shelves (and guest room) Completed!

It took about a full day to dress up the shelves with trim. Another full day to patch up all the imperfections with wood-filler. Another day to sand. Another three days to prime and paint the walls, ceiling, and trim. Another two days to prime and paint the shelves. And another day to attach the cabinet doors and move the books in. Whew! I stitched several pictures together below in an attempt to show the nearly finished room. (We still have to add the window treatments and find some neat hooks to hang on the wall where the closet door opens to.)

Cutting the Glass

Melissa and I went back to Armstrong Glass in Kennesaw, GA and picked out some neat glass with swirls of green, white, and brown. We picked colors to match the room, which we will paint dark brown, and the rest of the house, which has earthly colors.

Getting the 3/8" glass sheets home without breaking was the first challenge. The second was cutting it. I used my T-square, clamps, and an oil-filled glass cutter. Cutting glass is scary. It's as if some instinct holds you back, telling you not to attempt to break the glass. But even though my hands would not stop shaking, I managed to cut 5 perfect glass panels for my cabinet doors.

Later, after priming, painting, wood filling, and lots of sanding, I added the hardware and 3/8 square dowels using my brad nailer. Without the brad nailer it would have been impossible to nail the 3/8 square dowels without splitting them or breaking the glass.

Starting the Cabinet Doors

I built the 5 cabinet doors using 1 X 3 poplar frames joined using half-laps. On my last project, I embedded a glass panel in a slot within the frame. Brek suggested building the door more like a picture frame so the glass could be replaced if broken, without rebuilding the entire frame. His advice on holding the glass in the frame was to use square dowels. I managed to find some 3/8" poplar square dowels at Lowes so I decided to use Brek's suggestions.

Finding a way to glue up the cabinet door frames and keep the door perfectly flat is always a challenge for me. The flattest thing I could find was an extra 3/4 plywood sheet I plan to return. I used sheets of paper as protection against glue attaching itself to the plywood. To hold the frame pieces flat I used my boat battery on some scrap wood (see photo above). The end result was excellent, my best yet!

Second Shelf Wall and Corner

After lots of research on dealing with inside corners of shelves, I decided on the method seen in the picture above. I picked it because it seems to make the best use of space. Melissa thinks cabinet doors for most of the corner shelves will be useful because we'll probably use them for linens and other random stuff. I agree. Now I just have to figure out how to frame out a space to attach hinges...not fun.

I used nailers in the plaster walls on the corners and on each of the surrounding shelves. The nailers on the surrounding shelves will easily hold the weight. I skipped the plywood backing for the corner shelves because it would have been too difficult to try to fit it in there properly...also because I ran out of 1/4" plywood. Once we paint it and cover most of the corner shelves with cabinet doors, nobody will care.

I used 1 X 2 popular as the face over all the exposed plywood edges. It will help prevent shelf sag on some of the longer spans. It also allowed me to get away with Brek's adjoining carcase suggestion.

I went a little crazy with the nail gun while attaching the face pieces. The darn thing is so fun, I just got careless and several of the nails went in crooked and came back out in wrong places. I'll pull these nails through with plyers and patch the damage with wood putty...the joy of paint grade projects.

Building the First Shelf Wall

After suggesting I would build these shelves directly onto the guestroom walls, my brother, Brek, talked me out of it. He convinced me that building them using separate carcases that would later fit together was the way to go. This also solved another of my problems. Since the ceiling height is greater than 8 feet, I couldn't figure out how to get my plywood verticals to go from floor to ceiling. Both Brek and my Dad also believed the right design would include building a back onto the shelves instead of using the existing plaster wall. A plywood back would hide the plaster wall's imperfections.

So I decided to use a 1/4 birch plywood backing, 3/4 plywood verticals and shelves, with 1 x 2 poplar facing. I started with the bottom carcase that would fit under the window. The window, of course was not level so I used a chisel to square up the window trim with the shelf carcase. Rather than losing the existing wall outlet, I moved it into the shelf and added another electrical run for later use in another part of the shelf system. I used shims to compensate for the sloped floor (i.e., whoever finished the oak floor prior to us buying the house did not sand down the outside edges as much as the visible portion).

I decided not to build carcases for the shelves that would surround the window. There were so many dimension dependencies I could have messed up here so instead of carcases, I just attach the verticals to the backer and then shifted the verticals into the exact position once I placed them on the bottom carcase. I'll make the shelves later and slide them into the dado slots.

I used my brad nailer to hold all my joints while the glue dried.

I built two more carcases for the top because it spanned more than eight feet. These just barely fit. I got extremely lucky. A problem I didn't account for was the sag in the ceiling. It didn't become apparent until I tried to slide the top carcases into place. The only way I could fit the top right carcase in was to slide it from the left, which was not fun considering I was supporting the weight of it in my arms as I climbed a step ladder. I believe it may be pushing the plaster ceiling up by a 1/16" if possible. In hindsight, I could have gotten away with making these top carcases about an inch short and just covering the gap with molding. Oh well. That's what I'll do for the other shelf sections.

Preparing The Room

Okay, I know what you're supposed to do when you prep a wall for built-in shelves. If the shelf will not cover the entire wall, you still have to remove all the trim from that wall. Then you just put it back, right? The problem with old houses is Home Depot and Lowes don't carry the old style of trim. You end up either replacing the trim in the entire room or having two different styles of trim that don't match.

I decided to only remove the trim for the sections of the wall where the shelves would fit. I used a lot of patience and a flush cut saw with teeth all the way to the end of the blade. Here is the picture molding cut...

...and the base molding after the cut.

Designing With Google SketchUp

In the past, I typically approached project design by messing with scraps of wood out in my garage. I would hold them together and imagine potential joinery. Then I would start the projects using some basic design ideas and the rest of the design would fall into place as a kind of problem solving exercise.

This time, I stumbled onto Google's free 3D modeling program, Google SketchUp.

After the 5 minute tutorial I was hooked and I managed to spend about 2 days messing with my built-in shelf design. Although, it was frusterating to waste so much time messing with the 3D design, I flushed out quite a few bad ideas and narrowed my design down to something like this for now.

Mission #2: The Bookshelf

Ever since moving into our house two years ago, most of our books have been sitting in boxes in the guestroom. Our house has great storage space but no book shelves! This is a huge problem for Melissa and I because we have a large number of reference-type books that we reference often.

The solution is obvious. Make some book shelves. However, I've been dragging my feet on this project because I haven't been able to determine which wall to sacrifice. Every wall seems to have a good reason why it isn't bookshelf suitable (air intake/vent, window, old wood paneling I don't want to cover, closet doors).

Well, we finally came up with a plan that we both agreed on. I will build book shelves in the downstairs guestroom on two walls. I'll build them around a closet door, window, and corner. We think this approach will give us enough shelf space for most of our books/magazines without interfering with the guestroom furniture.

Here is the before picture.